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Comprehending how kilts are pleated affects the appearance and the feel of the finished garment.
The fundamental difference between pleating a kilt to sett or to stripe is that pleating to sett preserves the pattern of the tartan’s full back while pleating to stripe aligns only one vertical stripe that gets repeated on each pleat.
This decision dramatically alters the kilt’s appearance and the pattern’s prominence.
When a kilt is pleated to sett, there is a perpetuity of the look both in the front and the back, therefore, the pleats are made so the pattern continues without a break.
In contrast, pleating to stripe defines the focus on one colour or line in the pattern, which gets enhanced and the bold repetitive result is created, thus making one stripe stand out. Depending on which method is used, this gives uniqueness to each kilt.
Designers and researchers of Scottish dresses or those who study traditional clothing styles often ask how kilt styles, along with these patterns, impact the visual and tangible aesthetics of the garment.
Knowing the difference helps when ordering, designing, or appreciating kilts, especially with the many variations of tartan patterns seen in traditional kilts.
Understanding Kilt Pleating: To Sett and Stripe
Kilts use a special kind of folding called pleating, which changes how tartan patterns look and how the garment fits. The way the pleats are arranged, either “to sett” or “to stripe”, shapes the style and appearance of the finished kilt.
What Is Pleating A Kilt?
Pleating is a technique whereby a fabric is folded into uniform and orderly sections. It is done for purposes of fullness control, shape addition, as well as making the edges tidy. In garments like kilts, pleating is very important.
A pleated kilt is made with deep, uninterrupted pleats spaced equally, which aids in the ease of movement of the fabric while preventing bulkiness. This maintains the shape of the kilt while offering ease of movement.
Careful and even stitching of the pleats is essential to ensure a smooth and properly fitting garment.
Kilt Pleats: Structure and Placement
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The kilt pleats start at the waist and go down to the hem. The kilt pleats form a vertical pattern, which is referred to as folds of pleats. In this case, it is sewn down at the waistband, which means that the top part is flat but the bottom part opens.
Also, the pleats of a kilt go at the back. The front part is referred to as the apron, which is made of unpleated tartan panels. While the front provides a smart appearance, the pleated back of the vehicle aids easier movement and sitting position.
The size of the wearer, the sett, or the stripe pattern defines the number of pleats. There are between 18 to 32 pleats on a kilt.
Tartan Pleats and Kilt Folds:
Tartan is the traditional checked material used in the making of kilts. This fabric repeats in patterns that are very specific and set in order. Pleating changes these patterns into something else; thus, there is a reason for choosing it carefully.
While pleating, kilt makers also have to make sure pattern lines match so that all design elements remain along folds. This is important to keep the tartan’s cross stripes organised and balanced.
The way the tartan can be folded can either be a whole pattern( sett) or an outline (stripe), and these all change the appearance of the kilt.
Sharply pleated skirts have to be meticulously measured and marked before the fabric is folded and pressed to set sharp pleats, because there is no room for error.
Pleating To Sett Versus Pleating To Stripe
Pleating “to sett” refers to arranging the folds in such a way that the entire tartan motif continues over each pleat.
This method ensures that the back of the kilt is identical to the front, with whole design integration. This makes for a stunning traditional look.
Pleating “to stripe” (commonly known as “military pleating”) places the folds in such a way that a single tartan stripe is visible at the centre of every pleat. The back of the kilt has bold, solid lines, whereas the original pattern of the tartan is minimally visible.
Contrary to stripe pleating, this method is mostly preferred on military kilts or when a more rigid style is desired. For more on this difference, read about pleating to sett and stripe.
This decision hinges purely on the intended look and the custom that is being followed for both styles. There is no wrong answer as every method emphasises one feature or another of the tartan pattern and alters the final appearance of the kilt in a unique way.
Kilt Pleats in Front or Back:
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Kilt fashion typically has the pleats located at the back, giving the kilt an unrestricted front apron. This construction focuses on the tartan in the front panels while still allowing freedom of movement at the back.
This all makes more sense when we consider the straps, belt, and other adornments which need space to move.
Each fastening opens along the seam in the middle to reveal the apron, which covers the fastenings fittingly and overlaps. The pleats are only placed at the back, allowing comfort to the legs and hips, leading to the subsiding bulge in the front area.
Fashionable modern versions and some costumes may adapt the design with differing pleat placements, though in traditional attire, this is quite rare.
Where the pleats are situated defines how the Scottish kilt maintains its formal look and the right shape.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the differences in the appearance of a kilt pleated to the sett versus one pleated to the stripe?
A kilt pleated to the sett preserves the tartan pattern over the pleats, so the check is the same in the vertical and horizontal parts. The look is coherent, and that is how the fabric would look if laid out flat.
When a kilt is pleated to a stripe, each pleat is centred on a single line or stripe in the tartan. This creates prominent vertical lines on the reverse side and a more pronounced, bold, lined effect when viewed from the back, quite different from the sett pleat.
In what ways do these pleating selections impact the overall appearance and motion of the kilt?
In the sett pleat, the movement reveals repeat patterns of the tartan which, according to some, embodies traditional and classic charm. In this case, the back view exhibits more uniformity of the design concealed in silhouette.
The movement of pleating to the stripe adds more distinct, clarified edges, giving greater contrast. The kilt appears much slimmer or more striking from behind.
What considerations should be made when choosing between pleating to the sett or the stripe for traditional Highland attire?
Some formal Highland events and clan gatherings might expect the sett pleat as it keeps the tartan’s full design visible and is seen as more traditional. Others may prefer the stripe for regimental or personal preference, as it can highlight specific colours or clan symbols.
The selection could also vary by tartan design. Some tartans have no dominant stripe, so pleating to the stripe has little effect.
Can you explain the traditional methods for pleating kilts to the sett and the stripe?
Settlement, commonly referred to as pleating to the sett, demands folding the fabric in a way where the pattern, or sett, runs around the kilt. Willingness to match the tartan perfectly on every fold is necessary.
To pleat the stripe, the kiltmaker centres the same stripe in every pleat. This process involves careful measuring if the intended outcome is to achieve precision alignment of the stripes.
Why would one go for a sett pleat over a stripe pleat in a kilt?
For those wishing to preserve the authentic appearance of the tartan, a sett pleat is selected. It is often preferred for ceremonial, family, or historical reasons that underpin the full tartan design.
Some others consider the sett pleat more formal or more representative of a specific clan’s identity.
What are the usual events for wearing a kilt pleated to the sett and those pleated to the stripe?
Kilt pleated to the sett is usually worn during weddings, formal clan celebrations, and other clan gatherings. They are typical of events which appreciate tradition and a full display of tartan.
Stripe pleats are sometimes used for military uniforms or worn by pipe bands, where a more theatrical or regimented stripe effect is desired. Some families or groups also opt for the stripe pleat for a more distinctive appearance.